一个人的柬埔寨旅程（4）——微笑的暹粒
[size=4]微笑的暹粒，这个题目是我还在暹粒的时候就想好的了，虽然走过的地方并不多，但所到的地方，无论是现代的文明还是原始的落寞，都不曾给过我这样的感觉。暹粒的微笑是朴实的、 纯美的、发自内心的。真的，这样说一点都不过分。从早上的morning call,就开始感受到服务生上翘的嘴角。在走廊里，在餐厅、在前台，到处都可以看到服务生微笑着主动对我说：“good morning！”那笑容如绽放的荷花，清新、纯真，让我不由得也发自内心地笑了出来！这之后的旅程中，无论我走到哪里，只要是看到微笑的脸庞，无论男女，那羞涩中伴有亲切的笑颜，就一定是暹粒的人才会有的微笑。在路上，看到欧美的人，他们通常也会在与你四目相对的时候微笑，而这种微笑多半是出于礼貌的嘴角上翘，而且笑容收的很快。不记得是谁说的了——不管白人对你多么亲切地微笑，在他们心里一定是排斥你的。虽然这种感受不是很强烈，但是这种礼节性的微笑，远不如暹粒人那发自内心的友好笑容来得真切、舒坦。当然，日韩的游客，偶尔也有向你微笑的，但多半是需要你让路、求你帮忙，貌似谦卑，但笑容中流露的是互不干涉、互不侵犯的抗拒。
我以为，柬埔寨的人都有这样淳朴的笑容，可后来到了金边，却很少见到这样的微笑了。难道是现代生活的名利争夺掠走了都市人的笑容吗？可暹粒的人们生活在一个国际性旅游景区里，他们见到的并不比我们一些小城市的人见得少，赚钱养家的人比比皆是。难道是现代生活的节奏夺走了都市人的笑容吗？难道是现代生活的繁复扼杀了都市人的笑容吗？
我无暇继续猜想，也没兴致去猜想，在暹粒，我只想享受那处处充满暖意的笑容。[img]http://imgcache.qq.com/ac/b.gif[/img] [/size]
[size=4] 这个男孩子，是我在暹粒第一个成交的卖家，4000瑞尔买了10个竹编的手镯，虽然后来很多人都说我花钱多了，但我只当是帮他们了！[/size]
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[size=4]但在30日下午的旅程中，我似乎找到了微笑的答案。
本来是好天气的，可中午午饭的时候就下起了雨，回宾馆休息的时候，我只匆匆洗个澡便和同屋的女孩子出去拍街景了，顺便买点东西。[/size]
[size=4]有种车叫做“tuk tuk ”，是当地旅游的人主要的较通过工具。后来的日子里，我坐着这个车还真去了不少地方呢。但中国人都喜欢叫它“嘟嘟车”。[/size]
[size=4]在一个加油站旁边的便利店，我在这里买了鲜牛奶，打算晚上喂喂我的肚子，也喂喂我的皮肤。[img=24,24]http://imgcache.qq.com/qzone/em/e121.gif[/img]在货架上，我还看到了旺旺雪条和米饼，哈哈！从来不喜欢吃，但那一刻看起来好亲切！
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[size=4]下午我们去了这里的标志建筑之一的大吴哥，我们从南门进入，这个门又叫百姓门，通常是给老百姓走的，而东门是死亡门，西门是罪恶门，北门是胜利门，也叫和尚门。城门入口左边的，是54尊阿修罗的雕像，有些已修缮，但有些还是残缺着。从这一刻起，我开始看到了大大小小，高高矮矮的“高棉的微笑”，城门顶部四个方向的那四张脸，就是高棉古国的一个皇帝喜怒哀乐，虽然表情相差不大，但都是微笑的表情，看来这个国王是希望表现自己任何时候都是微笑的吧？这就是高棉古国的标志性雕塑。
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[size=5]巴本宫，是进入大吴哥的第一个景点，也是德国人正在修缮的景点，那时，我真正体会的什么叫“越是民族的，就越是国际的”了。这里的美，要想保留下来并维护好，柬埔寨自己无论从财力、物力、人力都无法做到的，这是全人类遗失的文明，每个人都有责任来保护它。
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[size=4]离开的时候，雨下得格外大，回头望望巴本宫，感觉他的沧桑愈发浓重了，像个进入暮年的老人，用他的经历在诉说着一段又一段故事，不由得让人心生感叹——再奢华的人生，也抵不过岁月的风霜。
在释迦牟尼佛像边避雨，多少让我感到点惠泽众生的味道啊！呵呵！
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[size=4]由于雨下的大，大家在去周萨神庙的路上都不愿意下车观看一些景点，这让我很郁闷，导游看出了我的不悦，就让司机停车，我高兴得连伞都没顾得撑，抓件能为我相机挡雨的衣服就冲进了雨里。这里是斗象台，是古时候挑选战象的地方，比得第一的大象就会成为国王的坐骑，剩下挑选出来的就是战象。[/size][/td][/tr][/table][url=http://www.hk365t.com/bbs/attachment.php?aid=320752&k=09bab924623c0bec9af0ccee25332445&t=1250266908&fid=258¬humb=yes&sid=0f70CtJos9qBsM8EGZg6r2zyTVEYMoW65zni49YxJPmnPWI][color=#0000ff]大吴哥33.jpg[/color][/url] [i](163.77 KB)[/i]
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[size=4]这是通往胜利门的道路两旁的十二生肖宫，柬埔寨的十二生肖居然和我们中国的是一样的呢！[/size][/td][/tr][/table][url=http://www.hk365t.com/bbs/attachment.php?aid=320754&k=8aca52ed95edc24b49513d3d107dd731&t=1250266908&fid=258¬humb=yes&sid=0f70CtJos9qBsM8EGZg6r2zyTVEYMoW65zni49YxJPmnPWI][color=#0000ff]大吴哥34.jpg[/color][/url] [i](122.84 KB)[/i]
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[size=4]最后，我们穿过北门，也是胜利门，来到了由中国政府出资修缮的周萨神庙，建筑物斑斑驳驳的石块，是由于修缮的时间不同造成的，虽然还有好多需要维修的地方，但这里已有的那一点点修缮，已经都花掉了8年的时间了。 [/size]
[size=4]当这一天的行程即将结束的时候，我明白了为什么暹粒人有那样淳朴的微笑了。虽然身处一个偏远的小城，但是世界各地的人们如朝圣般地涌到这里，欣赏着、赞叹着、感慨着、呵护着，而他们也高兴地接纳着世界各地的人们给于他们的新的信息，新的生活，新的快乐，他们只要保存着他们的质朴和遗留的文明，他们的生活就是有保障的，他们就是快乐的。[/size][/td][/tr][/table][url=http://www.hk365t.com/bbs/attachment.php?aid=320756&k=7ccd6638c0f537234e0fb2724f92f375&t=1250266908&fid=258¬humb=yes&sid=0f70CtJos9qBsM8EGZg6r2zyTVEYMoW65zni49YxJPmnPWI][color=#0000ff]大吴哥36.jpg[/color][/url] [i](178.58 KB)[/i]
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[[i] 本帖最后由 木玲珑 于 2009-8-15 00:25 编辑 [/i]] 这贴看不到图片，可能需要重新编辑，文字很精彩，期待图片:y16 [quote]原帖由 [i]阳光下的海豚[/i] 于 2009-8-14 19:12 发表 [url=http://www.szfx.net/bbs/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=368239&ptid=31780][img]http://www.szfx.net/bbs/images/common/back.gif[/img][/url]
这贴看不到图片，可能需要重新编辑，文字很精彩，期待图片:y16 [/quote]
不好意思，发上去在我的电脑上看不出不默认QQ空间的图片的！多谢提醒！ 图片看到了:y16 文章朴实亲切，如历其境。:y14
同时发现了，LZ对某类的形状感兴趣。
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